Monday, March 18, 2013

DAY TWO HUNDRED THIRTY THREE - to London, to London, to visit the Queen (but first – the National Express)

Left from the hotel for the coach ride I had arranged a couple days before – National Express (much like Greyhound Bus lines, these travel between specific points, north, east, south and west – mine was headed for Heathrow airport) – a little less than 30 minutes before its scheduled departure at 9am. It was reassuring to see that a number of persons were also there waiting at the designated spot near the Pavilion when I got there. The majority of us were part of the ‘pipe and slippers’ brigade. Unlike the first time I came to Weymouth on the Super Bus – for the singles convention in November – I had the proper confirmation print-out. (Happily you learn things as you go along.) The travel time was to be 4 hours 40 minutes – Becky was arriving at noon and I wouldn’t be there until 2, but that was the earliest it went that day. I supposed it was all the stops that would turn an average 3-hour drive into almost 5. (It wasn’t until we were invited to disembark for a 1.45-hour layover at the coach hub in Bournemouth, having travelled for less than 45 minutes, that the reason became apparent. What’re gonna do?!)

Our small group was pretty excited to be going on a trip, translated to mean everybody was being especially amicable and talkative, and just like always, as soon as someone heard me speak, the question was where was I from in the States? When I answered Utah, the driver himself, sitting in front of me, chimed in, ‘that’s where Salt Lake City is, right?  It’s known for two things, you know’ – the obvious one and . . . the salt flats. That second one surprised me – I thought it was going to be something different than that. I added, ‘and there’s one more, of course – the Osmonds!’ Everybody laughed at that – because, as I’ve said earlier, it’s true! Everybody in the UK seems to know the Osmonds. I said, ‘of the three, I was one – and it wasn’t the salt flats!’ The driver, who drives back and forth to London most days, mentioned he’d been seeing billboards, as well as the sides of buses, that said ‘The Mormons are Coming,’ and wondered if we were having a convention or something. I was pleased, and surprised myself somewhat, to have a ready answer to his query:  the Tony award-winning musical was to about to open in London – this very weekend, in fact.

Our first stop was Dorchester (said Dorch.ə.ster), lovely old country town, famous now for its association to the well-loved British author, Thomas Hardy. There we picked up several persons, one an Afro-Caribbean man, dressed cleanly in ordinary, work-a-day clothing – I will add that there was something different about him. He had about the same amount of luggage I had when I flew to England – two enormous luggage pieces and a good-sized carry-on. He brought the smaller one into the coach with him and seemed especially protective of it. The driver started gently at first, and then more forcefully, insisting that the man would also have to stow it with rest – that due to its size, if we were in an accident it was sure to become a dangerous projectile. It almost got to the point of being an uncomfortable scene – the driver saying we would not be able to continue our journey until the man complied. Always polite and calm, he eventually agreed, though reluctantly, taking what seemed like forever to extract his ‘important papers,’ as he called them. He sat on the opposite side from me, on the front row, kitty-corner from the driver, and was often on his cell phone for much of the first while.

For some reason for which I am unaware, I felt compassion towards this man – there was something especially dignified and regal about him – so that when we alighted in Bournemouth I offered to help him pull one of his larger cases into the station by the strap. If I hadn’t he would have been forced to leave part of his luggage unattended while he got the rest inside, and vice versa. And then in an unspoken agreement we each attended to the others’ belongings while the other went off briefly – me to the loo, him to get coffee. We chatted off and on a little during this interval. He was the one who helped me know exactly to which terminal Becky’s Delta flight would arrive – important because that was what determined which coach number you would take from this point.

When we boarded our connecting coach, he asked if I would mind if he sat next to me – I thought that promised, hopefully, to prove an interesting conversation. He had revealed in the course of our communication that he had lived in England for many years now, and was on this occasion headed back to Nigeria for a week’s visit. Astute as I am (that’s a joke), I said that I bet I could guess something about the contents of his suitcases. ‘Seeing as how you’re only going for a week – plus you’re a MAN, who are known typically to pack especially light – I’m going to guess that the majority of what you’re bringing is NOT for you, but for others.’ He chuckled and agreed – at which point the driver, immediately in front of us, having obviously been listening in – rather rudely, I thought, joined into our private conversation, and said, ‘it’s gold bars – that’s it. That’s what you people do.’ We ignored that prejudiced comment, and went right on chatting. At one point I asked him in what type of work he was, to which question he allotted he worked in a hospital.  I imagined him humbly going about his janitorial or other menial tasks, performing them to the maximum possible level.

When we got to Heathrow, once again I stayed with his luggage while he went to get a cart. We walked a ways together down the terminal corridor, until our paths diverged. As we parted we exchanged pleasantries – he wished me a lovely visit with my sister; I wished him a joyful homecoming. One of the last things he said to me as we went our separate ways, in a quiet aside, was that he was a surgeon there in Dorchester – shedding light on his reluctance to part with his smaller carry-on piece, as well as the probable contents of his other suitcases. I felt a bit in awe, plus somewhat sheepish for my own imaginings – and also experienced a renewal of the disdain I had felt towards others for their looks and actions towards this meek, unobtrusive  servant of the people.

Similar to the situation of meeting Andrew at Schiphol in Amsterdam, where neither of us was familiar enough to know exactly where to say to meet, for us sisters I guessed at the Delta check-in desk, Becky’s airline, as the best possible location – and, in the end, it was a perfect choice. (It turned out that Delta had more places to gather besides near the check-in desks, so we waited 50 feet from one another – separated by some paneling – for over 30 minutes. Silly!) She was travelling light – you go, Beck! –  so as soon as we connected – following a few big hugs and exclamations – we were ready to head out.

Following the usual pattern – asking many questions of many – we located and caught the Hoppa Hotel shuttle bus to the Comfort Hotel – the British contingency of Comfort Inn, smiling big all the while. (The cost was £4 each, for a ridiculously short ride. By the time we had finished going back and forth on it, our total ended up costing the two of us practically £25.) By the time we got settled in our room, we found it had gone 4 oclock. I kicked around the idea of us just staying in where it was warm, cozy and predictable (scaredy cat!), and then we decided, ‘what the heck, we’re here, let’s go for it!’ – meaning GO INTO LONDON, and all by our lonesomes! We had to wait for the Hoppa to come around again (another 4 quid each) to take us BACKwards to Heathrow where we could then catch the Underground (aka the Tube); specifically, the Piccadilly line – called so because it leads to Piccadilly Circus in the middle of the city – the only one that comes all the way out to Heathrow. (Some others include:  Bakerloo, Central, Circle, District, Hammersmith, Central, Jubilee, Northern, Victoria, and the Waterloo.) It was the one sure, quick connection to get us where we wanted to go. And we were happy for its reliability - plus it’s fun (I think!), and telling, in a big city to ride on public transportation.

At the tube station we picked up a map of the Underground –  it can easily be considered somewhat complicated (www.tfl.gov.uk/assets/downloads/standard-tube-map.pdf). I was pleased with my attempts at getting us around (mostly I’m a whimp) AND happy to have someone along to help make decisions, including making adequate sense of that CRAZY map! ( There are umpteen things to see and do about London, and they are scattered a fair distance apart. (You know we missed loads of things to enjoy, but, oh, well, we did it and that was good enough for us!) By this point, the day – and daylight – would soon be waning, so we needed to make the best use of our time. To make a long story short, we got off at the Piccadilly Circus exit and walked through the streets till we found Piccadilly Circus itself. (Just imagine, without my repeating it every other sentence, that it was two days of asking strangers a million direction questions!)

This large public space is similar to Times Square in New York, with lots of large neon-lighted structures. A ‘circus’ in Latin means circle and is a round open space at a street junction – in this case major roadways circumnavigate the space, sort of like a giant roundabout. We also came upon Trafalgar (all good Englishmen would drop the ‘r’) Square (another expanse, though not round this time ,with museums and government buildings surrounding it - a major tourist attraction I had been wanting to share with Becky (www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2009/may/29/trafalgar-square-fountains-reopen), one of the city’s most vibrant open spaces, full of many renowned features – Nelson’s Column with its beautiful fountains and four massive iconic lions; The National Gallery, with the adjoining National Portrait Gallery (one of my all-time favorite museums composed of portraiture alone, many of which you would recognize, having seen them in art books all your life (we chose NOT to visit museums at all on this trip – not Becky’s favorite thing to do, plus they do eat up a chunk of time), plus St Martin-in-the-Fields, a landmark church and London’s premiere concert venue.)

From here we walked along the Strand, an open street/walkway area, that eventually turned into the Mall – a long series of greenbelts, parks, etc. all which culminate into the extensive grounds of Buckingham Palace. We passed first near the gigantic Admiralty Arch that until last year housed government offices, now last year sold in a 125-year lease for redevelopment into a luxury hotel. On the way back we took a peak into the famous Kensington Gardens – as it was now dark. We could just barely see back through the glooming to a lake with water fowl. After a long day I was past feeling too brash, and thankfully so, as our guide informed us the next day that, by law, gardens and parks are off-limits after dark and by entering we could have landed ourselves in jail, or at the least risked the chance of getting arrested. What?!

Say ‘What?!’ again when I tell you where – of all the fine establishments, in one of the major capitals of the world – Becky and I chose to dine:  Pizza Hut! (You know, where I ate in Stratford upon Avon!) Well, at least we can claim it was Pizza Hut’s European cousin . . . And they didn’t even have their pizza buffet going for dinner – the whole reason I had pushed for it in the first place - but they DID have a salad bar. We were both really famished by then . . . and plus, we really LIKE pizza. (What can you say?!)

After our nice, satisfying, and ‘safe’ dinner, we meandered around some more, in the glow of the lights – contented to be together, proud to have gotten ourselves around in that magnificent metropolis, taking full advantage of this ‘once in a lifetime opportunity.’ As we were wandering about, enjoying the unique sights and sounds of the city at night, we came across a long stairway leading up towards some large statuary, to which curiosity drew us. When we reached the top the landscape became flat and we could see, not too far off in the distance, many bright lights and major buildings. This foray serendip-itously led us to Leicester (pronounced Lester) Square, center of London’s cinema industry and gateway to the theatre district – a perfect spot for people watching, and there were tons of college-age persons hanging about, having themselves a good time.

Eventually we found our way to the nearest Tube stop (they’re everywhere), went underground and figured out which of the lines to take to get us back to the Piccadilly line, landing us ultimately again at Heathrow, from whence we ‘hopped’ the Hoppa one last time, that took us safely and securely to the faithful ‘comfort’ of our waiting hotel – two contented and spent travelers.

When I looked back at the end of the day – that I got myself to London, found a decent, well-priced hotel, connected with Becky, and then took us into the heart of the city – and back again! – I felt a definite sense of pride. For me it was NO small accomplishment and . . . (also, for me) not easy. It took courage to do those things . . . and I am happy to report, it had all turned out brilliantly!


Photos_

  1- my fellow travellers
  2- shot of Weymouth Bay – while we waited
  3- the 035 – all aboard!
  4- Piccacilly Circus
  5- most famous of the Piccadilly Circus landmarks - statue of Eros
  6-7 Trafalga(r) Square
  8- what Trafalgar Square was like back when I first visited it - before governmental measures
  9- Admiralty Arch
10- Victoria Memorial in front of Buckingham Palace
11- waning light in the city
12- night life for the country girl
13-14 Leicester Square