Saturday, September 1, 2012

DAY TWENTY SEVEN - Betty's


Wednesday last, on my way to a treasure hunt, I found the most astonishing of treasures -- the dearest, sweetest man. (Yes, you heard me right!) And to think it all began in the most ordinary of ways:

As the week before, Sandra and I had talked about the potential of going to a weekly, midweek car boot sale (aka, swap meet), that in the end didn’t work out, I was determined not to miss another opportunity – and nothing on this particular Wednesday was going to prevent me from making certain I got there! So at this point, now  armed with the Internet ( i.e., Google maps) and my best walking shoes, I took off on foot to the Pennell’s car boot sale, known to serious bargain shoppers far and wide. (Man, did I get some awesome bargains -- just wait till you see!)

Anyway, along the way I came across a free-standing phone booth. Not that that’s so incredible or anything in its own right, it’s just that it was the first I’d seen this go around . . . and this outside of London and all (though in all honesty, it was NOT red!). So naturally I HAD to get a picture. (Oh, you should just see me around here with my camera!) I was in this mode when seemingly out of the blue this man came walking out of what, from out the corner of my eye, appeared to be an alleyway or something similar, you know, not along the street as you would expect. (In fact, that is what it was.) Anyway as I was sizing up the shot, he passed me while saying something at the same time. As is usual, because I wasn’t geared up to listen closely, thinking that, as usual, the person would give a cursory greeting and then walk on by, I only heard only something like “photo” and “phone booth.” As he had spoken in a joking manner to me, I teasingly bantered with, “Yeh, you want to get inside and I'll get your picture?” when in actuality what he had said all along was something to the effect of would I like it if he took MY picture inside the phone booth. And then, since he had offered to help, I took full advantage of his proposition and asked him, within the span of several shots, to try and capture the BT (British Telecom) etched in the glass door.

The notable thing about this incidence is that while most everyone is friendly and willing to help when asked, once they’ve done their thing they buzz right on along, but in this case, he didn’t.  He wasn't in the usual hurry and we chatted amicably. People are often interested to speak with an American, just as I would if I bumped into an Englishman in the States. (The usual conversation ALWAYS starts something like, “Where’re you from?” as my accent stands out like a sore thumb, and then the repartee expands out from there. {The funny thing to me is many ask, “Are you Canadian or American?” That seems like an odd question, as to us there is no similarity in the least that we are aware of.} Pretty much no one has heard of Utah, but EVERYONE has some sort of connection with California, Florida, or New York.)

We stood and talked, then we stayed and talked some more, then kept right on talking -- and I was liking it. (He is a year old than I am, and as we conversed we quickly learned that we have many things in common – for one he is a widower. His wife died tragically at the early age of 35, from breast cancer. He has two children, to whom he is very close. He will be a grandpa for the first time early in the new year – an event for which he is very excited, as you can well imagine!)

I shared that I had spent the majority of my time while visiting in England in the counties of Somerset and Wiltshire and how beautiful I thought it was. He said that that was where his grandfather had grown up, and where he had spent many hours as a child. He said as how in the last few years he had gone back to visit and how much it had changed and what a great disappointment that was to him. Referencing closer to home he related some of the changes that had taken place locally, and mentioned that when he was a boy growing up in the area across from where Pennell’s Garden Center is now, it used to be all open fields of barley.  What a coincidence, I said, that is just where I’m headed right now. I asked him about how much further away it was and he said it was still a good ways off. Then we discussed directions, etc. It seems I wasn't even halfway there yet. Because I think he didn’t want our conversation to come to an end just yet, he said something like if you can trust an old English chap I'd be happy to give you lift over there in my car.  

Now you may be thinking that my taking this man up on his offer was rash, but if you’d been there, (if you had experienced his goodness and sincerity), you’d have known what I could discern. He was a true gentleman, and a very fine one. I felt totally at ease with him, even after such a short interval  -- almost as if I’d known him for a very long time.

And so he did – he gave me a ride over to where I found the car boot sale, in the field, next to the very fine Pennell’s Garden Center. And this time around (remembering the disappointing -- in size -- car boot sale on the grounds of the Methodist church on Day Thirteen) it WAS everything I had been imagining and hoping for!

After we arrived and he had pulled off to the side, we sat in his car for a bit longer and kept right on talking. Neither of us wanted to say goodbye. In the end he asked if I’d like to keep in touch through email. (On a humorous note: when he was telling me his address, he said I could easily remember it because his first name was Ivan, like Ivan the Terrible, and his second name was Byron, like Lord Byron, the poet. In the career world, he has always been known by his given name. I said, if it was all the same to him, I’d call him Byron. And then he added jokingly, I’ve often wondered what was my mother thinking?!) Of course I wanted to, but I really didn’t see the point of it, seeing as how I was leaving on Sunday with Leah. It’s kind of hard to stay excited about corresponding with someone you never expect to see again. He respectfully said he understood, but if I wanted, he would gladly give me his address, nevertheless. He said that if I did write him and if he was ever anywhere around Birmingham, for business, he would be pleased if we could get together for dinner or something.

We did end up exchanging information, though I really felt it was hopeless -- though I earnestly was hoping it was not. And that is how I first met Byron.

So now, in case you’re wondering why I’m telling you about this on this date, several days after it happened, is because, between Wednesday and Saturday, Byron had the exact same thought that I had had, that we have a chance of spending a little more time together while we were this close, before I left out for parts south. After several short emails (in fact, he wrote me a very short email that very afternoon, to make certain I had him on the radar), he did contact me by phone and asked if I had ever seen York or Hull, and if not, would I be interested in going on a little trip to visit these sights with him. Would I? Would I??!!

And so on day twenty seven of my year in England, while the Wards were visiting for their holiday and having another awesome day of revelry in their swimming costumes, I opted, instead, for a date with destiny:

To start the day off, as I had very much been wanting to visit Caistor and Maureen’s home and dress shop (you may recall my friend at Lloyds; see why I had not been able to fulfill this desire by this point**), that good Byron said he would be happy for that to be the beginning of our trip, as it was in the general direction. (As an even MORE astonishing side note, when I had mentioned any chance of going to visit my friend Maureen, in Caistor, and described her and where she worked, Byron began musing in his mind if there was any chance this might be the Maureen he knew. Turned out it was! What a moment of merriment when I came in with Byron (about whom I had told Maureen – this man I had met so recently and now here we were going on a date). You should have seen her face! It was great fun. And I began to see what a delightful side Byron has. You may recall that the origination for Caistor is from the Roman Latin term, castra, plural for castrum, which means buildings or plots of land reserved for use as a military defensive position, and sure enough, Caistor was built on a fairly hilly site. Very cute village. We walked around and quite enjoyed ourselves in that first leg of our journey. (See below picture of anciently bricked natural artesian spring we came across.)

** [For several weeks I had been going to spend the day and night with Maureen, at her home in Caister, but as the days I had left remaining in Grimsby began to dwindle, our communicating had not been working out. First of all she is only at work certain days and then she had been ill and not there. On the last possible day I went in to see her and try to work things out and was told that she had been in the A and E(Accident and Emergency, aka ER) all day. Oh, no, I naturally thought, she has taken a serious turn for the worse. Turns out, I learned, she had tripped while walking across the railway track on her way to work that very morning and hurt her ankle, the very railroad track I traversed over pretty much every single day. (Maureen later told me that no one offered to help her. Even a train was about to take off in her direction! She had crawled herself across the track and then called a colleague at the bank to give her a lift to the hospital (Can you imagine?!), then had spent the remainder of the day there. It is quite a story: she was treated by a student nurse, who sent her home after waiting for her turn the entire day, saying there was nothing really wrong with her. She spent an agonizing night in pain. Went back the next day. They said, why are you here, we told you nothing was wrong. She said, I’m not leaving till you do something. They took xrays and said, okay, maybe you strained something or other and wrapped her up. The next day they phoned and she was called back, turns out she actually had a hairline fracture, and now she had a cast to limp around in for the next several months, and that was the state in which Byron and I found her in. Poor Maureen! Not too many kudos for the British medical system, I can tell you. I’d better be really careful, stepping off curbs, crossing streets and all, eh, Erin?!]

To get up to the northern county of Yorkshire, where Hull and York are located, you have to travel across the Humber Bridge. At the time it was built in the 1980s, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world, the greatest span of that type of a structure known to man. (Still impressive today, it holds a place in the record book as the 5th longest bridge in the world. Not bad.) On the other side of the bridge, after we had crossed from our home in the county of North East Lincolnshire, over the Humber (the large tidal estuary on the east coast of Northern England, formed by the confluence of the tidal River Ouse and the tidal River Trent – or in other words, the “seaside” we’d been visiting in Cleethorpes) we stopped to take a look at a view of a lovely wild field of poppies, by a little stream (what in Norman terms was known as a BECK), and oh-oh, it was here I had my first experience with stinging nettle. That darn nettlesome weed just always seems to reach out to grab me in the most unlikely of places! (Well, no, actually. In more exact terms, let us just say that I am one who is not particularly in touch with the details of her surroundings) The amazing thing is that God in his wisdom seems often to take allowance for the likes of those like me and positions quite close to distressing plants a remedy plant. And Byron knew what it was (dock plant, identified by its large leaves and thick stem) and quickly applied it to the sting. (I have since learned, by thorough investigation, that the leaves and stems of nettle are covered with silky hairs that contain a histamine that irritates the skin and acetylcholine which causes a burning feeling. As the irritant is acidic in nature, just like poison ivy, it can be treated by counteracting it with a basic substance, like the sap from a dock plant leaf.)
From there we travelled on to York, whose history as a city dates back to the beginning of the first millennium AD, though as an area there is evidence of settlement goes all the way back as far as 8000 BC. As York was a town in Roman times, its Celtic name is recorded in Roman sources. After 400, Anglo-Saxons took over the area and adapted the name to Old English, meaning "wild-boar town." The Vikings, who took over the area later, in turn adapted the name to Norse, calling it Jorvik, meaning "horse bay."
After the Saxon settlement of the North of England, Anglian York was by the early 7th century an important royal centre for the Northumbrian kings. Following the Norman Conquest of 1066 the city was substantially damaged, but in time became an important urban centre as the administrative centre of the county of Yorkshire. It prospered during much of the later medieval era. The later years of the 14th and the earlier years of the 15th centuries were characterised by particular prosperity. During the English Civil War, the city was regarded as a Royalist stronghold and was besieged and eventually captured by Parliamentary forces. After the war, York slowly regained its former pre-eminence in the North, and, by 1660, was the third-largest city in England after London and Norwich.
Every year, thousands of tourists come to see the surviving medieval buildings, interspersed with Roman and Viking remains and Georgian architecture. And that’s just what we did!!
Seeing as how it was a Saturday, York was understandably besieged by visitors – and that was a good part of the exhilaration of it all! It was the season for street vendors and performers. There was a LOT going on -- to see and hear and smell. On one occasion we happened upon what appeared to be a statue of a man riding a silly old-fashioned bicycle. His tie and umbrella were flying back (in fact, his umbrella was turned inside out) as if he had encountered a gale. And the most captivating thing was that everything about him was purple, from his bike to his fingertips to the spectacles sitting upon the silly expression of his face. Byron said, what do you think? Do you think he’s real? His having said that made me think that, of course, he was, but the longer and more carefully I examined this whimsical character, the less I thought it could possibly be true. And then Byron spoke to him. And then I learned another special something about Byron’s personality – the sheer joy he has in engaging others and sharing a pleasant moment with them. He had met and seen this man before – in fact, now for many years -- and the purple man and Byron chatted away, as if they had been best friends forever. I just stood in awe.
What should technically be called a minster (a large and important church), the majestic York “cathedral” (in actuality, the seat of a bishop) was originally built as a Norman structure in the 11th century, while records indicate that as a Christian edifice, a church has existed on the site since 180 AD. At the point the Gothic style of cathedrals had arrived in England, the cathedral was rebuilt in the 1215 when a structure “to compare to Canterbury was ordered. From then until into the 1700s, it was revamped continuously, making it by present standards the largest gothic cathedral in northern Europe. The Great East Window, (finished in 1408), is the largest expanse of medieval stained glass anywhere in the world. What you see when you gaze up at the cathedral is pretty difficult to even begin to put into words. It is just beyond description -- something that everyone should see, at least once, in their lifetime. Really should be considered one of the (??) Wonders of the World (can’t put a number on that, because I have no idea how many structures in the world exist that should belong in this category!)

Next to its cathedral, one of the most well-known draws to York is an area known as the Shambles. It’s a teeny little lane, really, so old and narrow that the houses on either side seem to be leaning across at each other, to such an extent that the light of day can barely get in. Besides that the beams on the outside of the houses are buckling so precariously you feel that the whole street is going to tumble down right before your eyes. You practically get vertigo just looking at them.

About the time we were both getting peckish, Byron had a treat in store for me. I felt very honored that he wanted to share a very special spot he has enjoyed at various memorable moments in his life, and that was a trip to Betty’s Tea Room. You have to travel all the way to York for this marvelous experience. The waitresses are outfitted all up in proper 19th century female service period dress, and the items on the menu were quite divine. I ordered a glorified version of mac and cheese (I do like pasta, and it was Frenchified, after all!), while Byron had chicken and gruyere rosti, a glorified version of potato pancake, best I could tell -- a Swiss dish consisting of grated potato formed into a cake, with onion and topped with cheese. The food at Betty’s was awfully good, and the establishment was all very genteel. (And, yes, Byron had tea.) We had to wait in line just a little, for the privilege of eating there, as many others had the very same idea on that bustling Saturday afternoon. While you waited, there was an old-fashioned pastry/candy counter to tempt your taste buds. (I just looked . . . )

We hung around York, till before you knew it the shops were beginning to slowly shut down, one by one. Then off to Hull we buzzed. Byron had spent a quite a bit of time in this industrial city, so showed me quickly around various sights by car. One of my favorite things was a massive statue of a man astride a horse. Byron pointed out that that was the famous cast image of King Billy. The thought of that so made me laugh. King Billy! How absurd for a king to be known as Billy. (Originally a king of Scotland, William invaded England on November 5, 1688, in what became known as the “Glorious Revolution,” deposing the reigning king, James VII, and winning for himself the crowns of England, Scotland, and Ireland. Crowned William III, he ruled jointly with his wife, Mary, until her death, in a period of time often referred to as “William and Mary.” He was affectionately known by sections of the population in Northern Ireland and Scotland as “King Billy.”) By this time the light was beginning to fade, and I was beginning to tire. (Can you imagine?!) It had been a whirlwind day.

What I really like about Byron is his desire to try and match my curiosity with ready answers, as well as his eagerness to point out interesting things he is aware of. Now THIS is the perfect way to experience a new culture -- with someone who knows a lot about a certain thing and takes pleasure in sharing all the joy of it with the person he’s with. What’s not to love about that! You know, like King Billy, for instance. Byron knew everything about him and the revolution that ended up changing English history forever! (And there he was -- right there, riding along in the middle of this street, all arrayed like some Grecian senator, with pigeon confetti all over his shoulders – despite the pigeon-repelling apparati. Awful!)

Wow, what a day!! And to think it all began with my desire to go to Pennell’s. All in all, I ended up spending twelve glorious hours with my knight in shining armour -- that very special gregarious and personable gentleman -- before he delivered me safe and sound at the doorstep of my home on Bargate. Under ordinary circumstance, it would have been way too long for a first date really, where normally you would want to keep it to lunch, at most, to protect yourself just in case the synergy was gosh awful and you were dying to bail at the first available moment. As for me, in all our lengthy and fantastically grand day of interaction, I can truly say I did not experience ONE red flag. Pretty incredible really, when you consider it.

(Postscript_ I’ll just add here, as I know you’re dying to know, the answer to “and then what happened after that?!” Well, I met Byron four short days before I left Grimsby for good, and had to bid my new friend a fond adieu. We have kept in touch by emails and a few phone calls, though infrequently, as he is busy and I am distracted. That’s okay, because I feel in my heart that there is much more to this story that remains to be told – after all, the Lord works in mysterious ways, his wonders to perform.  And as it had started out so serendipitously, so miraculously to begin with, I feel serenely that this is not the end. We’ll see. To be continued__)


Photos_

1-   OLympic Google doodle
2-   the infamous phone booth (that’s not superwoman!)
3-   the renowned Pennell’s car boot sale
4-   artesian spring in Caistor
5-   pigeon spikes above shop (poor pigeons – nobody loves ‘em)
6-   2428 yds of steel and concrete
7-   street performers in York
8-   purple man and disguise crasher (notice: still wearing the thumb guard)
9-   York Minster/Cathedral, whatever
10- the Brambles
11- buckling beams
12- Betty’s Tea Room – won’t you join us?
13- swiss rosti @ Betty’s
14- King Billy