Tuesday, January 1, 2013

DAY HUNDRED SIXTY NINE - Christmas eve


Haven’t seen the sun for days, as has been the case for pretty much all of England.  Many areas across the country are on flood alert, with many trains grounded. Bad, especially now, since it’s Christmastime and many persons are having difficulty reaching their loved ones. While snow and ice are NOT in the forecast, as Christmas approaches ‘the weather is NOT playing ball,’ (as reported on the BBC One ‘breakfast show’. (Hurray, I figured out how to work the little television in my room this morning! Got to do one of my favorite things, something I haven’t had the chance to do since arriving in England – watch the morning news on the telly in the safety and security of my own little room. Amber Warning, meaning severe weather warning, is in place for many areas of the UK, (while in the U.S. an Amber Alert is a child abduction alert bulletin.)

One of the options for the guests today was a coach tour - naturally, didn’t want to miss out on that opportunity! Saw some great bike paths as we headed out into the countryside – McKay take note! As we neared what turned out to be our destination, the driver called out, ‘about ready for some Christmas shopping?’ to which everybody cheered. I thought that was a bit odd – ‘shopping and countryside.’ Turns out I seemed to be the only one who hadn’t realized what this morning’s excursion was all about – a case of miscommunication, as I had totally misinterpreted what I thought Loraine had said. Instead of a sight-seeing tour around Dorset (green rolling-hill county of England), it was a ‘last day before Christmas’ shopping trip to the historic market village of Dorchester. (And I hadn’t even brought a purse!)  Dating back to the time of the Romans, and perhaps best known for the works of Thomas Hardy, one of my favorite British authors, it was known for centuries by the ancient name, Durnovaria. One lady, the most stylish and youngish-old of the women in the group, remarked to me quite excitedly as she exited the bus that she was going ‘vintage shopping’ – meaning she would be hitting all the charity shops, searching for treasures. Lucky dog!

Made friends with the coach driver – of course I had opted to sit on the seat right behind him, so I could see and hear to the max – AND ask questions. At one point in our private conversation, he mentioned that his father had died the day before, but here he was at work. He had had cancer for over a year, the end imminent – for now there wasn’t a whole lot he, the driver, could do to help, and thus was here doing his usual thing.

As it was raining, others besides myself opted to stay on the coach. Before we knew it, our congenial driver had taken pity on us and asserted that he would happily drive us around for a while so we could take a look at a few of the sights worthy of note in the area. Hurray – sightseeing after all . . . even if it was through rain-stained windows! One of the first things pointed out to us on the way out of town was a sort of urban development created through the efforts of Prince Charles (future king of England, former spouse of Princess Diana), Poundbury, that the driver called a town within a town (similar idea to Daybreak in Salt Lake valley), containing a variety of residential and commercial properties. According to what I read on the Poundbury website, the development ‘seeks to implement the principles expounded in the 1989 book by the Prince of Wale’s, A Vision of Britian.’ While we just barely grazed the borders, I was actually quite impressed with what I saw – looks like the sort of place in which I wouldn’t mind living. To learn further details about the plan, visit:  http://www.duchyofcornwall.org/designanddevelopment_poundbury.htm.

Here we were, in the English countryside of Dorset, a county in southern England, Thomas Hardy territory – green rolling hills, sheep farming, stone outcroppings. (The country of England, part of the United Kingdom – made up of England, plus Scotland and Wales – is divided into smaller segments known as counties. For instance, I first lived in Grimsby, Lincolnshire; then Birmingham, West Midlands; and now in Weymouth, Dorset.) It was SO picturesque – I can hardly put it into words to describe it adequately – little villages with thatch-roofed houses, grazing livestock in the meadows, old wooden fences criss-crossing the rolling grassy landscape.

We traveled through the narrow lanes of several small villages, a word I’ve come to realize we don’t use very often in America – for a place like ’Gardner Village,’ yes, but not so much in reference to a small-sized town. It always surprises me how, where in teeny roads like these – for all intents and purposes, an alleyway – parking along the road is NOT prohibited. At one point the way was SO narrow that it was necessary for the coach to be driven up over the curb onto the walk in order to be able to pass through. One such village was Casterbridge, known to many as the setting for one of Thomas Hardy’s better known works.  (At this point it has become annexed into the larger Dorchester.) Several times on our journey today, when referring to changes that towns have been through time, the driver used the term ‘grown up,’ in reference – not to a person – rather a community. For instance, when describing Casterbridge back in the day, he said, ‘it wouldn’t have been much back then, but it’s grown up.’ He said this more than once, reminiscing as we drove through towns he had had past experiences with, saying something like it used to be like such and such, ‘but now it’s grown up.’

We saw many instances of flooding in the lowlands on our travels today. Most of the streams we drove past – and there were many – are in the full-flood stage, creeping up over their banks. You could also see that the clay soil in the plowed fields was saturated to the very brink, little rivulets of water sitting on top of the individual rows – or else so much that it had combined to form pools of water. One of the main roads the driver wanted to take to head us back into Dorchester was blocked off due to flooding. Also notable, in relation to water, much of the watercress that is exported to locations all around the world comes from farms right here in this area of Dorset.

At one point we passed through the Piddle valley, (so named because it is situated next to the River Piddle), into the adjoining valley known as Puddle valley (where besides Puddletown, there were other small villages, like Tolpuddle, Affpuddle, Briantspuddle – with, no doubt, a number of other ‘puddles’ as well!) You could tell it gave our driver great pleasure to be able to say, ‘I guess you could say Piddle turns into Puddle,’ knowing it wasn’t the first time he’d said it, either! Haha. Silly, yes; however, it is right here where the origination of the phrase ‘to piddle,’ meaning to urinate, comes from. As a large stream, when the water level is high, there‘s no mistaking its presence – in dryer times, it practically disappears.  When you take into account the possible sizes that a stream can be, a piddle, as it comes out of you or me, is indeed a very small one. (Funny that my mom during our growing up years, on rare occasions, in her most exasperated moments, would use the expletive, ‘piddle ‘- as in, ‘oh, piddle!’ It just now dawned on me for the first time, in thinking of this term, what she was saying – but did she?!)

Printed on a hand-lettered  sign I saw next to a farmhouse:  Sacks 4 Sale – 10p (pence), free string. (Is that funny to you, or is it just me? If the sack is practically being given away for nothing, why bother to even mention the string?!)

Close to the village of Cerne Abbas we came upon the Cerne giant – 180-foot carving of a naked man looking down at us from the chalk hillside. (He is one of four such images that have been discovered in England. No one has been able to determine when they were made, why they were made, or who made them. It all remains a mystery – though there are plenty of guesses!) On another hilltop the driver pointed out what he called neolithic earthworks. What you see is the shape of broad, low, terraced banks, concealed through the eons by earth and grass.

Towards the end of our extemporaneous tour, the driver, knowing JUST what his riders would like, as well as RIGHT where to get it, stopped at an inn where everybody, but me, went in for a cup of steaming comfort. I was greatly surprised to learn by the driver’s comment, as we arrived back in Dorchester to the spot along the curb where we had dropped off the others – waiting patiently there for us now – that in all our wanderings we had never been further than nine miles outside the city limits at any one point. I never would have guessed that!

Late in the afternoon went out and did a little last minute shopping – for Loraine – as one by one the stores closed behind me – it was Christmas eve! The wonderful, amazing thing is that, even though it was close to 5pm when I got back in, all I needed was a sweater – the temperature by then topping out at all of 52 degrees. (Palm trees, keep telling yourself, palm trees!) At the hotel, life went on as usual – bingo*, then live lounge-style entertainment in the bar as people purchased their cocktails and were encouraged to sing along with the music. It was the start of the most un-Christmasy of Christmases I’ve ever experienced.

*[Bingo cards go on sale each night, starting around 745, for something like a pound a try. (Their grid is configured differently than ours: whereas ours is rectangular vertically, theirs is rectangular horizontally, plus there is no possibility of winning with a diagonal line – only up-and-down or across, and NO ‘free’ space in the middle.) About two-thirds of the ante goes to the person who first completes a line, with the remainder to the one who fills up their entire card. There is an actual electronic system that the caller uses – the caller consisting of one of the children usually.  It is very interesting to observe because, starting with Jamie up, they have this distinct way of calling out the numbers (for instance, number 10: Cameron’s den [referring to #10 Downing Street, the headquarters in London of the Prime Minister of England, John Cameron); number 69: bright in line (?); number 88: two fat ladies;  number 11: legs, 11; number 2: one little duck, quack (participants join in and say quack, as well; number 22: two little ducks, quack quack; etc.) and they do it rather quickly, with a definite cadence to it. The first time I observed this phenomenon - so had no idea what to expect - it was the youngest of the siblings, Jamie, in the game host position. And he did it no less expertly than any of his older brothers or sisters – you never would have guessed he was 15. I get the distinct impression that this boy is old for his years (or wants to be anyway), for whatever experiences he’s had in his short life so far, besides having shown up as the caboose of the family train. Anyway, kind of fascinating the first time, after that I found it rather annoying – just call out the numbers, for heck sakes!]


Photos_

1- from the Daily Mail – vehicle floating through bridge on top of flood waters
2- puddled fields
3-6 through rain-streaked windows
  a two-lane pass we’re about to enter
  thatched cottage
  maneuvering village streets
  Gothic church in Dorchester
7- giant chalk man – in the buff (headlines: Youngsters recreate Olympic torch on Cerne Abbas' chalk giant – Pupils from Cerne Abbas First School joined forces with members of their local community and children from other schools to climb the hill and recreate the Olympic torch on the famous chalk giant that overlooks their village.)
8- Christmas eve dinner